Owners’
Notes
Sea Otter
1997
L.O.A. 38' 5" Displacement 18,500
lbs.
L.W.L. 31' 0" Ballast 8,200 lbs
Beam 12' 2" Draft 4' 6"
Mast Clearance 49' 6" Sail Area 800 sq. ft (100%)
Water Tank 90 gal Auxiliary Engine: Yanmar 38 HP Diesel
Fuel Tank 50 gal Cruising
Table of Contents:
Page
1. Sails and Rigging 2.
2. Anchoring 3.
3. Engine 3.
4. Electrical Systems 5.
5. Instruments 6.
6. Galley 7.
7.
Head 7.
8.
Dinghy 8.
9.
Miscellaneous 8.
10. Upon Returning to
1.
SAILS and
RIGGING:
•Sea Otter is cutter rigged and may be sailed with a variety of sail combinations
to suit weather conditions. The staysail
provides added sail area (about 25% more) plus versatility. Light air sailing is improved using the main
and double headsails, plus a variety of reduced sail area combinations are
possible in stronger winds: e.g. main
& jib; main & staysail; reefed main & staysail, etc.
•The fully battened main has three reef points, lazy jacks, and jiffy reefing with two reefing lines led aft to the cockpit. Be sure there is adequate slack in the reefing lines and main sheet when hoisting the main. Also, make sure the vang is not too tight when raising the main.
•Out haul for the main is on the port side of boom. Set it normally at the spar manufacturer’s label; at the front of the label, if you want more shape in the main; toward the rear of the label, if you want flat sail.
•The main has a dual line “jiffy” reefing system that allows one person
to quickly reef while remaining in the cockpit.
One line reefs down to the first set of reef points; the second line
reefs down to the second set.
•Don’t tighten up the loose reefing lines in the cockpit when the main is lowered and on the boom. Instead, tuck the line dangling from aft end of the boom in the mainsail flakes on the boom; the main will be much easier to hoist the next time out. Also, once the main is down and tied on to the boom with several sail-ties, if you loosen the lazy jacks lines at the cleats on both sides of the mast, pull them forward and loop them around a cleat or winch on the mast, and then re-cleat the lines, it will be much easer to put sail cover on over the sail on the boom. (While underway we keep the mainsail cover down in the aft stateroom.)
•The staysail is self-tending and roller furling. The staysail furling lines are on the port side, outside the cockpit combing. To unfurl the staysail, pull out the outhaul line which will run the sail out to the end of the staysail boom. Cleat this line off. As you pull out the clew line, keep some light pressure on the roller furling line to prevent a “rat’s nest” in the furling drum. When you furl in the staysail, never use a winch on the furling line as it will damage the furler.
•The staysail boom is controlled by a single sheet that runs to the small winch on the port side cabin top. The staysail will self tack as you come about. The sheet will act to control the tension on the boom and sail shape.
•The roller furling line for the headsail runs down the starboard side to a cleat near the stern. Keep light pressure on furling line as it unwinds. The roller furling headsail can be adjusted/reefed for the wind conditions using the roller furler.
Ø Sail control lines: •Green/White
Fleck—main halyard •White/Green
Fleck—main sheet (in cockpit) •White/Red Fleck—jib sheets •Red/Green—reefing lines
•Solid
White—traveler control
•Solid
Blue—staysail halyard •White/Blue Fleck—staysail
sheet •White/Black Fleck—jib
& staysail furling lines
Ø Turn into the wind to raise sails or
to “reef.”
Ø Best order to raise sails is: Main first, then staysail, and jib last.
Ø While underway, close the deck
hatches and portholes if there is going to be any spray.
Ø Consider shortening sail from 15
knots of wind up; 1st adjustment, reef main to first set of reef
points; 2nd, roller reef jib; 3rd, furl up staysail; 4th,
fully furl jib or reef main to second set of reef points. .
Ø The clutches for each line are
released by rotating the brake lever “fully” forward, not just partway.
Ø Winch handles are stored in the cockpit
combing lockers with teak lids.
Ø If motoring in light winds may want
to put the main; will stabilize the boat and improve mileage.
2.
ANCHORING:
Sea Otter’s primary anchor is a 45 lb. CQR with 200 ft. of 5/16” chain and 250 feet of 5/8 inch nylon rode. It is marked with paint every 20’ and with plastic inserts in the chain links every 50’. The second bow anchor is a 44 lb. Claw/Bruce with 40 ft. of 5/16” chain and 300 ft. of 5/8 inch nylon rode. There is a Fortress FX-17 stern anchor in the starboard lazarette with 40 feet of 5/16 inch chain and 250 feet of ½ inch rode.
LOWERING ANCHOR:
Start the engine. Do not run the windlass without the engine running. Turn on the power to windlass using breaker switch
located in the salon under companion way stairs. Flip up the cam brake on the
chain, just ahead of the windless (use attached line to temporarily hold the
cam “up” away from the chain by tying the line to safety line.) Depress the “DOWN” footswitch for the windlass on the
bow deck and let out the desired amount of anchor chain. Stop the windlass, reattach the anchor
bridle over the bow sprit to the chain and secure it to the forward cleats on
both sides of the bow, and then release the chain tension on the windlass
by a tap on the “DOWN” footswitch. Flip
the cam break back on the chain.
RAISING ANCHOR: Start the engine. Do not run the windlass without the engine running. Turn on power to the windlass at the breaker switch beneath the companionway stairs. Take off the anchor bridle by taking in a little chain. Move the boat forward very slowly, taking up chain as you go by pressing the “UP” footswitch in short spurts. As the anchor nears the anchor roller, use short toe taps on the footswitch to finish bringing the anchor on the roller. Put the rubber caps down on the footswitch when done.
Ø Anchor and rode should be cleaned of mud and kelp as they are brought aboard using the bow saltwater hose & nozzle (turn pump on/off using switch on electric panel in salon).
Ø NEVER OVER TENSION THE CHAIN WITH THE WINDLASS. The windlass is extremely powerful and damage could occur.
Ø Turn off the windlass power switch below the companionway stairs when finished lowering or raising the anchor.
Ø During raising anchor, it’s best to have someone checking inside the chain locker (looking in with a flashlight through the door in the v-berth) to make sure the chain is not stacking up on the incline panel or going over onto the wrong side of the anchor locker.
Ø
If the second bow anchor is used, when raising
it the nylon rode needs to be wrapped 2 or 3 times around the smooth upper
portion of the windlass post. (Cleat off end of chain portion using the anchor
bridle to get the necessary slack in the nylon rode.)
3.
ENGINE:
Sea Otter has a 38 horsepower, 3-cylinder fresh water cooled Yanmar diesel engine (Model 3JH2E). The combination shift lever and throttle are located on the steering pedestal, The control panel for engine gauges and alarms are located on the starboard side of the cockpit. The ignition switch and fuel-kill knob are located on the engine control panel. The engine will push Sea Otter along at 6.2 knots at 2200 rpms. Using higher throttle settings will produce very little increase in forward speed but will greatly increase fuel and oil consumption. For this reason, we ask that you limit the use of higher power settings to real emergency situations. Use 2000 to 2400 rpms for normal cruising. Fuel consumption at 2200 rpm is approx. .3/4 gal/hr.
Ø Check the engine oil level. The oil dipstick is on the starboard side of the engine. Access is through the engine door in the galley. Oil levels anywhere between the high and low marks are acceptable. If need to add oil, do NOT over fill. Spare oil kept onboard and should be located during your onboard orientation. (Spare oil will be either in starboard cockpit locker or behind cushions on port side of salon.)
Ø Visually check the sea water strainer located under the berth in the aft stateroom. If the strainer needs to be cleared, use the following sequence of steps:
o a) Close the seacock for raw water intake in the bilge under the sole access panel in the galley (placing the handle in perpendicular position relative to the water flow is the closed position);
o b) Unscrew the clamps and rotate aside the bronze lid on the strainer located amidships under the berth in the aft stateroom;
o c). Pull out the strainer and remove any eel grass etc.;
o d) Replace and reseat the strainer;
o e) Reseat and clamp down lid on strainer;
o f) Reopen seacock under galley sole;
o g) Check to make sure bronze lid on strainer is not leaking sea water.
1. Make sure Battery Switch under step into cabin is set to position ON (1).
2. Place the shift/throttle lever in a vertical neutral position. Press in the red button on the end of the shift/throttle lever hub and push the throttle forward a few inches. This will open the throttle while keeping the engine in neutral. The starter will not engage if the shift lever is not in the neutral with the button pushed in.
3. Turn engine key clockwise. The engine oil alarm should make piercing sound. Continue to turn the key clockwise to engage the starter. Crank the engine until it starts. Release the key as soon as the engine starts. No glow plug warm-up is needed.
4. Never crank the engine for more than 10 seconds at a time. If it does not start, wait 10 seconds and retry. Cranking the engine for more than about 30 seconds without starting can flood and damage the engine as exhaust water is taken in but not expelled. If the engine doesn’t start within 30 seconds, wait for a minute for the water to drain from the exhaust system and try again with increased throttle.
5. Run the engine at 1000 rpm for 5 minutes to warm; then return to idle.
6. Always check for engine cooling water coming out of the exhaust. If there is no water, turn off the engine, check the raw water intake seacock and sea water strainer (close seacock and check for eel-grass). If necessary, check engine water pump V-belt, cooling hoses, and as a last resort, the raw water impeller.
7. Whenever the engine is started, run it for 15 minutes before turning off as it must be hot enough to evaporate any water remaining in cylinders.
8. Leave engine start key “on” whenever the engine is running. NEVER turn to “OFF” with the engine running as it may blow the diodes on the alternator and it will cease to charge batteries.
To stop the engine pull the round Black Fuel-Kill Knob located on the forward side of the engine control panel in the cockpit. This cuts off the fuel supply to the engine. Alarm will sound. After alarm sounds, and only after it does, turn key off. (NEVER turn the running engine off with the key as it may blow the diodes on the alternator.)
The fuel tank holds 50 gallons of diesel fuel. The
tank should be kept as close to full as possible to prevent water from
collecting due to condensation. Diesel
fuel fill fitting is on starboard deck amidships (screw on cap marked “DIESEL”;
tool to unscrew the cap is in chart table).
Please refill the fuel tank upon returning to
1. Overheating may be preceded by black smoke issuing from the exhaust.
2. Normal operating temperature for engine is about 190 degs.
3.
IF
ENGINE OVERHEATS, IMMEDIATELY SHUT DOWN THE ENGINE !!
4. The most likely cause of engine overheat is plugging of the raw water filter with seaweed. Check the raw water filter located under the aft berth. To clean the filter, close the raw water through-hull valve. (As with all through-hull valves, placing the handle in perpendicular position relative to the water flow is the closed position). Unscrew the filter top, lift out and clean the filter.
5. After clearing any obstructions, it is very important that the lid to the filter is properly seated so that there is no air leak. Otherwise the water pump will suck air from the filter rather than raw water for cooling. Adjust the gasket on the filter element if necessary for proper seating.
6. Tighten the filter assembly to obtain an even seal. Reopen the seacock and watch for leaks.
7. Check the coolant level. Add made-up fresh water and coolant if necessary.
8. Check the belt to the water pump.
1. If the oil pressure light comes on, or the gauge shows a drop in oil pressure, IMMEDIATELY SHUT DOWN THE ENGINE !!
2. Check the oil level. Add oil if necessary.
3. If the engine oil is not low, do not restart. Contact San Juan Sailing or other personnel listed on the emergency contact list included in the Ships Manual.
.
Ø Keep Battery Switch in “ON” (1)
position. You should be able to leave it
in this position for the entire duration of your charter.
Ø
Check
engine oil level and make sure “raw water” seacock is open before starting
engine.
Ø
Gear
shift/throttle lever must be in neutral to start engine.
Ø
It’s
ok to use some power when docking especially with wind; although Sea Otter is
heavy, good power can stop it fairly quickly.
(Engine can run up to 3000 RPM.)
Ø Running at 3000 rpm for 15 minutes
every other day is “good” for cleaning the injectors—but not essential.
Ø Monitor temperature gauge for
overheating (should be around 190 deg.).
Ø
Monitor
oil pressure gauge.
Ø Never
turn either battery switch to “OFF” or the ignition key to off when the engine
is running.
4.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS.
AC 110 VOLT
SYSTEM
The procedure to hook up to shore power is as follows:
• Turn off “main” breaker on board (located on the port side of the chart table AC panel)
• Turn off breaker at dock outlet.
• Connect the female plug of the yellow power cord to the boat first (outlet socket located on the port side of the cockpit combing). (power cord is stored in yellow satchel in starboard lazerette)
• Connect the male plug of the power cord to the dock outlet.
• Turn the breaker on for the dock outlet.
• Turn on the main breaker on the chart table AC panel.
The battery system is divided into two “banks”. One bank is the “Start Battery” for the
engine (one Group 27 battery). The other
bank is the “House Bank” (three 8D batteries). The Start Battery is used to
start the engine and run the windlass. The
House Bank runs everything else. The
Battery Switch is located on the bulkhead under the companionway steps. The Battery Switch has 2 separate sets of
contacts to turn on but isolates the Start Battery and the House Bank
batteries. The Battery Switch should
always be kept in the ON (1) position.
Only if the Start Battery goes bad should you have to turn the Battery
Switch to the COMBINED position to start the engine; then put the Battery
Switch back in the ON (1) position. NEVER switch the
All of the batteries are AGM. The Group 27 Start Battery and one of the House Bank 8D batteries are located under the aft berth amidships and behind the engine. A second House Bank 8D battery is located under the chart table seat. The third 8D battery under the starboard settee in the main cabin and back under the galley sink. The charging output of the alternator goes directly to the House Bank 8D behind the engine and is protected by a 130 amp fuse that sits on top of that battery. The charging output of the inverter/charger goes to the power post and is protected by a 200 amp fuse. That fuse is mounted in the next locker outboard of the batteries in the aft cabin. When the voltage of the House Bank goes above 13.1 volts a battery combiner closes and the system also charges the Start Battery. When the system is not charging and the voltage on the House Bank drops below 12.8 volts the battery combiner opens and the batteries are isolated. The combiner is mounted next to the Start Battery under the bunk in the aft cabin.
Monitor the charge on the two battery banks with the Hear Link 2000 at the chart table. Try not to draw the House Bank, #2, down below 200 amp. hrs., which is approx. 50% charge. Also, watch that both battery banks don’t drop below 11 volts. If the alternator is not charging Bank #2, while the engine is running turn the Battery Switch to COMBINED for no more that 5 seconds to kick start the alternator.
5.
INSTRUMENTS.
The alarm feature of this instrument can be very helpful. The depth alarm is set at the depth instrument.
The instrument is turned on with the ELECTRONICS breaker at the instrument panel. For more instructions on other features, please refer to the user manual onboard.
The
On other features, please refer to the user manual onboard.
Sea Otter is equipped with a marine VHF radio transmitter. The Federal Communications Commission (FCC) licenses it as a ship station. This radio can be an extremely valuable source of information such as weather and tides and in an emergency it is a vital source of assistance. It can also provide telephone contact with people on shore through the marine operator. Channel 16 is the distress, safety, and calling frequency and should be monitored whenever the radio is on and not in use on another channel. This will allow you to hear emergency weather bulletins or calls to you from San Juan Sailing or other boats and any distress calls where you might be able to assist. It will also enable you to hear how the marine radio system works and what phraseology to use in various situations.
The cruising guide books, tide tables, Washburne’s tables and current atlas are kept on the bookshelves. The dividers and parallel ruler are kept in the chart table. Charts are located in the chart drawer beneath the starboard salon settee.
6.
GALLEY.
The galley has a three burner gimbaled propane stove with oven. It is fueled from a propane tank located in a locker on the starboard side deck. The manual valve on the top of the tank should be kept closed whenever the stove is not in use. There is also a solenoid operated electric valve that must be operated by a switch on the electrical panel at the chart table in order to get the propane to the stove.
Propane is heavier than air so the gas will collect in the bilge, therefore a certain amount of caution is required. A full tank of propane normally lasts a little more than two weeks.
Please follow these procedures:
1. Make sure that the controls on the stove are in the OFF position.
2. Turn the PROPANE circuit breaker to the ON position. The red indicator light should come on to confirm that the solenoid valve at the tank opened properly. If no light is seen, check to see that the battery master switch is ON.
3. Once you have the red light, push the knob in and turn to the light position. Twist the ignition button while continuing to hold the control valve in for 20 seconds or the thermocouple safety valve will shut the burner off.
4. Turn on the gas and pop the ignition button. If it does not light in 4 or 5 tries, turn off the gas and wait. Try again after a few minutes. If you have followed all the procedures and the oven still will not light, you may have exhausted the propane supply.
5. Check the oven periodically to assure that it remains burning. Be sure that you turn OFF the PROPANE circuit breaker when you have finished with the stove. For greater safety, close the hand valve on the main propane tank before retiring and at the end of the cruise.
6. For cooking underway, the stove is gimbaled. Unlatch the forward base of the stove
.
The potable water tank has a capacity of 90 gallons and is filled through a fitting on the starboard deck amidships.
Hot water can be generated by 3 means. When the engine is running under load, the engine cooling system will heat the water in the hot water tank. When at dockside, the 110 volt power system can be used by turning on the switch marked “Hot Water” on the power panel. Otherwise, heat water on the stove in the big coffee pot.
The refrigerator can be drained using the switch above the refrigerator in the galley. It is necessary to first turn the refrigerator ON using the breaker on the DC breaker panel. The starboard side of the box is the freezer. The amidships side of the box is the refrigerator. Do not make any changes in the thermostat. It should be set and left at “3”.
The (ON) switch for the freezer is in starboard lazerette forward on bulkhead.
7.
HEAD.
The head contains a vanity with sink, a showerhead, and a marine toilet with hand operated pump for flushing.
The toilet is easily plugged by 2-ply tissue, kleenex, hair, tampons, or paper towels. The person who plugs a head is responsible for unplugging it. Flush only waste and marine toilet paper through the toilet.
The holding tank is located under the forward section of the port salon settee. All head contents go into the holding tank. Unfortunately, the holding tank needs to be emptied frequently. It has a capacity of 18 gallons. Figure 1 gallon per use. Over-filling the holding tank will force sewage into the vent. Once the vent is plugged the entire system functions poorly if at all. The holding tank should be emptied on a regular basis by going to a pump out station several times a week. Follow the directions found at the pump out station. The waste pumpout deck fitting is located on the port side deck. When emptying the holding tank via the deck fitting assure that the y-valve (below the center section of the port salon settee) is set to direct the effluent from the holding tank out through the deck fitting. (The arrows on the y-valve handle will point to the line from the holding tank and the line to the deck fitting.)
The holding tank may also be emptied overboard with the Guzzler hand pump located under the center section of the port salon settee. Open seacock (in the same compartment as the y-valve and Guzzler pump, handle will be open when in the vertical position), turn Y valve clockwise to open (arrows on y-valve handle point to hose to seacock and to the hose from the holding tank), and pump until emptied. Close seacock; return Y valve to the deck pump-out setting.
Turn the circuit breaker switch labeled WATER PRESSURE to the ON position. The deck shower also requires the water pressure to be on. If no water comes out of the shower, check the valve between the faucet controls and the valve at the shower head.
The shower empties into a sump under the shower floor and is emptied by a sump pump. Turn this pump on at the electrical panel and activate the pump switch in the shower to empty the sump as you use it.
Use the folding shower partition to prevent water from getting into the main cabin and to minimize cleanup. Wipe the walls down after the shower to prevent mildew.
8.
DINGHY.
The ten foot inflatable
Ø Assign one of your crew “dinghy
duty” upon entering a harbor to anchor or a marina to dock. Their job is to shorten
the dingy painter to bring the dingy close to the transom. This will assure the
painter does not get wrapped around the prop shaft. (The dingy painter is
floating line so that will help too.)
Ø Coming to shore in the dinghy, avoid
sharp rocks and barnacles that could cause damage.
Ø If you beach the dinghy consider the
tide direction. (Tie to a tree or rock if the tide is coming in.)
9.
MISCELLANEOUS.
• Companionway entrance boards stack
under the chart table on the teak shelf.
• The main lock is in the chart
table [Combination 3003].
• There are locks for the lazarettes
in the chart table as well [Combination 303].
Sea Otter is equipped with an automatic bilge pump.
The master switch is located on the electrical panel above the chart table.
Normally, the switch will be left in the
Refer to the diagram in the Owner’s Manual for through-hull locations. An appropriately sized wooden plug is tied to each. Seacocks are open when their handles are “in line” with plumbing (typically vertical) and closed when perpendicular to plumbing (typically horizontal). All seacocks (except as noted herein) are normally left open while cruising. Please leave all open when returning the boat, except forward seacock for anchor wash station should be closed.
In the event of steering gear failure, remove the round cover located on the helmsman seat in the cockpit. Insert the emergency tiller, which is stowed on a hanger in the starboard lazarette
FIRST AID
The ship’s first aid kit is located in the vanity under the head sink. Please notify San Juan Sailing of any items used from this kit during your trip so they may be replaced.
There are three hand-held fire extinguishers. One is mounted on the bulkhead of the in the galley, one under forward berth and one in the port side lazarette in the cockpit.
The emergency flares are in the port side salon cabinet or behind the port side cushion.
Personal flotation devices (PFD - life jackets) are stored in a yellow bag in the aft stateroom.
The propane fueled BBQ uses one pound propane bottles available at grocery stores. Also, please be sure to clean the BBQ before returning the boat, if not after each use. The next charter guest thanks you.
10.
UPON RETURNING TO