NOTES FROM OWNERS
OF
Just Fiddlin’
Hello and welcome aboard Just
Fiddlin’. She
is a 2003 Catalina 320, and is new to the charter fleet. She is in excellent condition with all
electronic and navigation options, additional engine sound proofing, a complete
cover for the cockpit in the event of rain, plus the ability to secure the
dingy on the transom davits. Just Fiddlin’ is a quick sailor, moves nicely in light air and
is very stable in heavy weather. The
engine has just 360 hrs., and burns only ½ gal/hr. at 6 knots.
Please respect our need to
maintain Just Fiddlin’ as a smoke free vessel.
Fair winds to you, Roger,
Jennifer and Aidan (the fiddler) Woods, owners.
Check
the index below for details on some of the equipment.
INDEX:
1. Anchors
2. Barbecue
3. Batteries & Charging
4. Berths
5. Bilge pumps
6. Dinghy
7. Dodger/Bimini
8. Electrical Panel
9. Electronics
10. Engine
11. Fuel Tank
12. Head & Holding Tank
13. Heater
14. Radio/CD Player
15. Refrigeration & Freezer
16. Sails & Rigging
17. Sailing & Handling Characteristics
18. Shower
19. Stove
20. TV /
21. Vacuum
22. Water Tanks (Hot & Cold Pressure)
1. Anchors. Just
Fiddlin’ is equipped with two anchors, one on the bow
and one in the rear starboard cockpit
locker. The primary bow anchor is a
Delta with 100 ft. of chain (marked with yellow paint every 25 ft.) plus 125
ft. of woven line (marked every 20 ft. with rode tags). The secondary anchor is a Danforth. This anchor is as powerful as the Delta with
a shorter chain and 300ft of marked line.
Remember to secure the bitter end before deploying the stern anchor.
The proper scope in the islands is about 4 to 1. In most cases use all 100 ft. of the anchor
chain plus some woven line depending on water depth. Check for swing room, deploy anchor and
reverse boat until you have paid out the suitable amount of anchor rode. Continue to idle in reverse for about 1
minute to properly set the anchor and test its holding power.
Electric
Windlass: The windlass receives
power from the starting battery. Always operate the windlass with the engine
running. Otherwise the windlass may
drain the battery.
The breaker (on & off
switch) for the windlass is located starboard side, next to the main battery
switch. Push the on button (hard) to
activate switch, don’t forget to turn off switch after anchor is secured.
Deploying the
Anchor: First, look closely at how
the anchor is secured, then pull the __ anchor locking pin, release the
chain from the cleat and windlass and lower the anchor. Watch the wave action on the bow of the boat
so the anchor does not “pendulum”, swing into and ding the bow.
Retrieving the
Anchor: Check port lazarette for leather gloves if want to keep you hands
clean. Do not use the electric windlass to pull the boat to the anchor. Motor slowly, forward/neutral until you are
above the anchor, all the while pulling in the slack hand over hand. When all the slack is taken up on the anchor
chain wrap the chain around the windlass chain cog, (catwheel)
hold tight the slack end or secure it, then motor forward slightly, to break
the Delta anchor out of its bottom anchorage.
Retrieve the remaining chain and the anchor using the windlass. Step on the rubber switch to activate the
windlass motor. The last few feet pull
in by hand to guide the anchor into its holder, paying close attention to the
bow action of the boat so the anchor does not swing into and ding the bow. Secure the anchor by wrapping the chain
around the catwheel and then around the anchor
cleat. Lock the anchor in place at the
roller end with the anchor locking pin.
Turn off breaker switch for the windlass.
Special Notes on the
Windless: The windlass is very
powerful and can rip itself from its attachment points if straining at a jammed
anchor shaft or chain. You can prevent this from happening by pulsing (one or
two seconds) of foot switch at a time.
If the anchor should get hung-up on something on the bottom, do not use the windlass in an attempt
to break it free. Cleat off the chain
and then use the boat to gently
power forward and backward in the attempt to free the anchor.
2. Barbecue. The BBQ and propane tank are mounted on
the starboard rail. Turn on tank and
follow the lighting instructions. Be
sure to place the BBQ lid so it blocks the wind. Please use the wire brush attached to the BBQ
to clean it after use.
3. Batteries
& Charging. There are two 4D deep cycle batteries. #1 battery is the dedicated starting battery
and #2 is the house battery. You will find
the battery switch in the #2 position, please just leave it in this
position. You can conserve battery power
by turning off unneeded lights and making sure all navigation instrument
switches are off when moored. If in the
event the house battery should fail, switch to #1 as a backup, always keeping
in mind that this is the battery that starts the engine. Running the engine charges both batteries.
Note: Never
switch the battery switch to the off position if the engine is running. This will blow
the diodes on the alternator.
Shore Power (a)
Turn off all AC switches at the
boat’s electrical panel.
(b) Turn off power (breaker) at the shore electrical
box.
(c) Plug in the yellow shore power electrical line to
the boat and shore.
(d) Turn shore power breaker on.
(e)
Turn on boat’s AC electrical switches. Check to be sure the little green light
next to each switch is on. If these
lights do not come on when the switches are in the on position, you do not have
power. Locate the AC on/ off switch in
rear port lazarette opposite the boat’s shore power
plug. Make sure this is in the on
position & double check the shore power breaker.
Reverse the procedure for e,
d, & c, when leaving port.
When on shore power both of
the boat’s batteries will charge. Just make
sure the correct AC electrical switch is on.
Note: Please, just leave the boat’s battery switch
in the #2 position.
4. Berths. Just
Fiddlin’ sleeps four very comfortable – two in the
forward V-berth and two in the queen aft cabin. Two people can sleep in the
main salon when the salon table drops down and a cushion insert lays on
top. If you decide that you will not be
using the main salon table as a bed, I suggest you leave this extra cushion in
port.
5. Bilge
Pumps. There two bilge pumps.
The emergency pump is located in the starboard aft area next to the
helm. The handle for this pump is
located in the aft starboard lazarette secured to the
stern bulkhead with Velcro.
The electric bilge pump
remains on at all times (check switch on panel). The pump will engage if water covers the
float switch.
Bilge Check: Make the bilge check
a part of your morning rounds. Pull
gentle on the first carpet runner,(it is secured with Velcro) starting at the
end away from the stairs, and remove the floor board. There should be NO water in the bilge. If
you find water, remove with an old cleaning sponge and investigate by checking
the thru-hulls and hose clamps, then continue to monitor.
6. Dingy. Just Fiddlin’ has an inflatable dinghy “Half Note” that is
mounted on the stern with quick release davits.
Remove the dinghy’s painter from the Velcro holder, unhook the two
carabineers that secure the dinghy to the grab rope and let the dingy fall. The ladder/gate can either be lowered into
the dinghy or opened enough to step through to the stern landing. Oars, dingy pump and extra cushions are
located in the small starboard lazarette. The oar locks are in a black bag secured to
the dinghy grab rope.
Releasing and Retrieving Dinghy from
Davits: If the dinghy is weighted, (peopled) it can be more
difficult to release the dingy from the davits. It is sometimes easier to tie
off the dingy painter, release the dingy from the davits, then help people
aboard. You can load people on the
dinghy when davits are connected but they will need to sit far out on the port
side so the starboard dinghy hooks can pop-up over the securing hooks.
Reverse
the procedure to secure the dinghy to the stern davits by adjusting weight in
the dinghy or using the painter.
To
pull the dinghy up for travel, thread the painter around the port grab rope of
the dinghy and pull. The dinghy swings
up very easily. Secure the carabineers on the grab rope and painter in its
Velcro strap.
Dingy Pump: Keep the dinghy
full of air. 5 to 10 pumps in each side
chamber once during the week should be about right.
Care in Beaching the Dingy: Beaches are
very hard on a rubber coated fabric dinghy.
Look
for the best beaching site. When
approaching the shore, weight the aft of the dinghy so it will guide up on the
beach, then offload everyone over the bow.
Do Not drag the dinghy on
shore but lift by using grab the lines and then setting it gently on the
beach. Check tide is it rising or
falling and secure painter. Bring an
extra line if necessary.
NOTE. Some of the worst wear on a dinghy can
happen if the tide rises just enough to float the dinghy and then incoming
waves cause it dash into the beach.
Outboard: Just
Fiddlin’ is equipped with a 2.5hp 4 stroke
outboard. It weights just 30lbs. An inflatable generally does not row all that
well and if you are thinking of exploring bays and surround areas this may be
the way to go. There is an extra charge
for the outboard.
Starting: 1. Check gas
& make sure engine is in neutral.
2. Open vent on gas tank.
3. Open the gas shut off valve (starboard side)
4. Pull out choke
& give a strong pull on starter rope.
5. Engine usually
starts on 1st pull.
6. After about 30
seconds of running gradually push in choke.
7. Shift only when
engine is at idle, (reverse by turning engine 180).
8. Run at slower
speed until engine warms.
Note:
Depending on weight, (1or 2 people) & weight position, the dinghy
will plane. More than 2 people you just
waste gas by running the engine wide open.
When the engine is to be stored, turn off the gas tank vent and gas shut
off valve.
7. Dodger/Bimini. The dodger’s plastic “glass” is vulnerable
to scratching from salt crystals, especially after sailing into a challenging
breeze. The salt spray on the glass
dries in the wind, leaving behind tiny salt deposits that obscure your
vision. Please avoid directly touching
the glass with a rag or sponge. It’s
like rubbing the plastic glass with sand paper!
To clean, use a generous amount of fresh water or a sopping wet sponge
to flood the glass and dissolve the salt crystals away.
Bimini: Just
Fiddlin’s bimini unfolds
and extents all the way to the dodger to help protect you from the rain or sun. Before unfolding the bimini
note how the straps are used to secure the bimini in
its present position. Undo the straps
and unfold the bimini. Secure the straps around the
two grab holds on the dodger support, then start the port zipper and zip it a
couple of inches, now start the starboard zipper and then zip both of them
closed.
To
secure the bimini, unzip the starboard zipper all the
way then the port zipper. Undo the
straps and secure as you have already noted.
8. Electrical
Panel. The switches on the panel are all marked and self explanatory.
AC (120V): Shore power switches are
clearly marked. There are 4 AC outlets,
one in the V-berth, two in the main salon and one in the rear berth.
Anchor Windlass and
9. Electronics. The radar/chart plotter/
Cellurlar
Phones: Our boat has a 12-volt cigarette lighter type outlet
and is may be used for charging your cell phone.
Depthsounder: Use the depthsounder only as an aid to navigation in shallow water.
The key to avoiding rocks is not the depthsounder—but
knowing where you are at all times. (Rocks
are the greatest navigational and safety hazard in the islands—but they are all
clearly marked on the charts.) We do not recommend using the alarm. It is likely to sound at inappropriate times
such as late at night while fish are passing beneath the transducer.
Radar & Chart Plotter: Just Fiddlin’ is equipped with a Raymarine
Radar and chart plotter, they are integrated and there is a color full-function
display at the helm. First turn on the unit at the nav
station and then turn on the unit at the helm
The
chart plotter may be used without the radar to minimize battery drain. To start Radar/Chart plotter, turn on the
electrical panel switch labeled “Chart plotter”. Then, press and hold the power
button at the lower left corner of the unit until it beeps and turns on the
display. The Raymarine
manuals have quick start sheets and clear instructions. To shut down the unit, press and hold the
power key for 3 seconds.
We
recommend that in addition to the Maptech waterproof
chart book (with the most active “killer rocks” marked in red) in the cockpit,
please utilize the chart plotter for added safety. You should have little need
of the radar except for the highly unlikely event that you are suddenly
enveloped by fog, which is rare in this area. The fog that we’ve encountered
usually burns off by mid-day. If it’s
still soupy after breakfast, we put on an extra pot of coffee until it lifts.
(Never depart from a “safe” location into the fog!)
Knotmeter: If the digital knotmeter
shows a reading of “0.00” while underway, the impeller is most likely clogged
with a piece of eelgrass. Sometimes it
will float off overnight. You can also
try removing it by traveling in reverse.
The impeller is located beneath the most forward salon seat cushion. (We
don’t recommend that you try to remove the impeller to clear it, unless you are
VERY experienced in such things. An open hole in the hull is a scary situation,
and if not plugged quickly, it can jeopardize the boat.) If the knotmeter is temporarily “out of service”, the
VHF radio: The remote access microphone (
10. Engine. Starting
1. Check the oil
level. The dipstick is accessed via rear
berth. Unlatch the cover and lay on
bed. The dipstick is on the starboard
side of engine. Keep the oil level between the full line and the fill line. Do not overfill. Use the onboard spare
oil to add no more than a cup at a time. Then check the level again.
Overfilling is a bad thing to do to a diesel. The excess oil will escape
somehow , perhaps by blowing the head gasket. Also, if the dipstick indicates
no oil the first time you check it, reinsert and try again - the correct level
will show when the air lock bubble is broken. Expect the oil to be blacker than
that of a gasoline powered automobile engine…this is normal for a diesel after
only a few hours of operation. While the rear cover is removed, do a visual
check of raw water strainer, fuel lines, filters, transmission, propeller shaft
and stuffing box.
2. After securing
the engine cover in the aft cabin, lift the companionway stairs for access to
the front of the engine. Check for belt
tightness and, leaking fluids.
3. Secure the
companionway engine cover and sound cover blanket.
4. Look over the
stern for things that could foul the propeller.
5. Make sure
the gearshift is in neutral and the red handled fuel shut off lever is DOWN.
6.
Push the throttle lever about 1/5 forward.
7. Insert the
key and turn it clockwise. The warning buzzer will sound because there is no
oil pressure.
8. Press and hold
the starter button. Expect the engine to
start in 3 seconds or less. If the engine doesn’t start after 10 seconds of
cranking, turn key to the left and remove it.
Wait 15 seconds and try again.
9.
After the engine starts, check for oil
pressure and water gurgling out the port side exhaust, gradually ease the
throttle back to idle.
10. While the engine warms, check your fuel level.
Please
allow 5-10 minutes of warm up before placing a load on the engine. It is very hard on a diesel to be placed under load
when cold.
Special Note on
the Transmission: Always bring engine
throttle back to idle, wait 5 – 10 seconds for engine RPMs
to slow before shifting the transmission to forward or reverse.
Operation. The
27 HP Yanmar 3 GM series engines are very
reliable. Our cruising speed is 6 knots
at 2400
To avoid the possibility of sucking air or
sludge when the fuel level falls below a quarter of a tank, refuel before
the fuel drops below ¼ full. Using 75% of our 19-gallon fuel capacity yields a
175 NM range, or about 29 hours of cruising.
Engine
Overheat. If the buzzer sounds
while the engine is running, immediately check the oil pressure and temperature
gauges. If you lost oil pressure, shut down the engine, check the oil level,
and contact San Juan Sailing. The alarm buzzer is more likely to indicate
engine overheating (and a different light will light up – the one with the
thermometer symbol). Check for water gurgling out the exhaust before you shut
down the engine. If you have the normal
amount of water exiting through the exhaust, check the coolant level after the
engine cools down. If there is no water gurgling out of th
e exhaust or you see steam instead of water, the seawater strainer is likely
plugged with eelgrass. The best solution to this problem is prevention—keep
an eye peeled for eelgrass masses, especially along those “soapy” tide and eddy
lines in the water. When eelgrass gets sucked into the engine cooling water
intake, it jams at the raw water strainer. To clear the strainer, raise the companionway stairs for access. The
raw water strainer is above the waterline, so there is no need to shut the
seacock valve on the raw water intake.
Remove the top of the strainer by turning it counterclockwise. (It will
be tight, so a little elbow grease will be required.) Extract the plastic
filter element. Remove the eelgrass (and throw it in the garbage can), and
reinsert the plastic filter element into the strainer. Replace the lid and
tighten by turning it clockwise until the lid is seated on the rubbe r gasket. (Be careful not to mis-thread
the plastic top. Hint: Turn counter-clockwise first until you feel the top
threads drop down into place in the bottom threads…then tighten clockwise.) If
upon restarting the engine overheats again, check the seal between the strainer
and its lid. If the strainer is drawing air, it won’t draw water. (If still
overheating, contact San Juan Sailing.)
Engine
Shutdown. Do not shut the ignition key while the engine is running! First bring the engine to idle and the
gearshift to neutral. Allow the engine 5 minutes to cool down. Then pull the
fuel cutoff handle by your right ankle. After the engine stops, turn off the
ignition and remove the key.
11. Fuel Tank. 19 gallons. Please be very careful when fueling. Never
allow maximum flow from the filler hose. If you do, the fill tube will surge
and diesel will spill from the vents onto the side and onto the deck. It takes
only a few drops of diesel fuel in the water to create a sheen and subject you
to a Coast Guard fine. Fill slowly and carefully. When the pipe begins to
gurgle like its full, you are probably full. You may also be able to see the
diesel when looking down into the fill tube. Check the side vent and, with soap,
wipe up any excess fuel to avoid yellowing the stern and polluting the water.
Also be very careful of drips when removi ng the hose. Diesel and shoe bottoms are a very slippery
and dangerous combination. After wiping, please use soapy water to scrub down
any drips so it does not stain the fiberglass.
Note:
Unlike automobile fuel gauges, fuel gauges on boats are notoriously inaccurate.
Therefore, whenever the fuel level drops below ½ full, you should refuel at
your next opportunity. NEVER let the fuel level fall below ¼ full or you’re in
danger of running out of fuel. (Towing and the cost of a mechanic to bleed the
air from the fuel lines is an expensive proposition for a charter guest.)
12. Head and
Holding Tank. Please do not put anything in the toilet that you
didn’t eat first. Deposit toilet paper (and feminine items) in the receptacle
under the sink, not down the toilet. Just Fiddlin’
has a 22-gallon holding tank mounted under the main salon seat next to the
head. (San Juan Sailing staff will discuss holding tanks and pumpouts on your arrival.)
Tank level gauge: This tank
monitoring gauge is located at near floor level under the starboard salon
cushion next to the head. Press on the button labeled waste and you will get a
reading on the level of waste in the holding tank. Do the same for the two
water tanks.
A “Y” valve
is located next to the holding tank. In
one position, the toilet will discharge overboard. In the other, it will
discharge into the holding tank. If you use the holding tank, please monitor it
carefully! If the toilet pump starts to
resist your flushing effort, don’t
force it! Exploding or leaking
sewage is most unpleasant! Search out the problem and correct it. To empty the
holding tank overboard (where appropriate to do so), simply open the
red-handled seacock under the sink in the head. The holding tank has a gravity
discharge system. If you pump out the holding tank at a shore facility, please
fill it with fresh water through the deck fitting to rinse, then pump it out
again. Thank you!
13. Heater .
The diesel fired Webasto cabin heater is located in the outboard portion of
the starboard cockpit locker. The black heater control is located at the above
and slightly to the stern of the electrical panel. The control has a rocker switch to turn the
heat on and off and a rotary dial for temperature. With the rocker in the heat position,
rotating the dial to the right starts the unit and raises the temperature
setting. Turning the dial all the way to
the left tu rns off the
unit, however the fan will continue to run while the unit is cooling down. Check to make certain that the heat vents are
not blocked by clothing or bags. The
heat is dry, comfortable, and on those rainy days or cool evenings, makes a
huge difference in cruising comfort!
Please
note that the air intake is located in the cockpit, near the floor (port side).
The intake pickup (chrome) is like a vacuum cleaner and will suck up any debris
(hair, tissue paper, candy wrappers, rubber bands, etc.) that is underneath it.
If that material gets into the burner, either the unit will not fire off OR it
may burn and become a small bonfire inside the unit. Please check for debris in
the cockpit before turning on the Webasto cabin
heater.
The Webasto heater exhaust is very hot air when coming out the
port stern. If a line, dinghy painter or
anything else is hanging in front of the exhaust outlet it will melt or burn.
14. Radio/CD player. The
Jenson radio/CD player has two speakers inside the main salon and two speakers outside. The speakers can be controlled (faded) to
just play inside or out, both, or any degree of sound in between. We have left a few of our favorite Irish
fiddle music CD’s, plus a few CD’s that have a collection of songs a friend on
another boat left for us. We are glad to
share these and hope you to enjoy them.
If
you do listen to music on the outside speakers while moored, please be
respectful, sound travels easily over water.
15. Refrigerator. The well-insulated refrigerator must be turned
on at the electrical panel. The rotary
dial thermostat is located in the refrigerator. We recommend running the
refrigerator during the day only, not at night. Or at least turn it down to “4”
(the medium setting) at night. This will help conserve house battery power.
16.
Sails
/ Rigging.
Hoisting the
Mainsail: The mainsail is easily hoisted from the cockpit. Before hoisting the main it is necessary to
slacken the topping lift to loosen the flaking lines of the Dutchman Flaking
system. Add about a 18 inches of slack
to the topping lift line and then secure this line with the rope clutch. Wrap 3 turn of the main halyard line around
the winch, give a pull and you can hoist the mainsail right up the mast. Use the winch handle for the last 6 to 12
inches.
Dropping the Mainsail: Tighten the topping lift (by hand only)
to take the slack out of the flaking lines, loosen the main halyard and let the
mainsail do a controlled drop. The
mainsail will flake itself on top of the boom.
The first flake needs to be to the starboard side of the boom. Depending on the wind direction, it should be
from the bow, you may have to straighten up the folds on the boom.
Reefing the Mainsail: When
the mainsail is reefed you have shortened the mainsail by about 20%. Loosen the main halyard until (red tape) on
this line is visible just aft of the rope clutch. Now pull on the reefing line until (red tape)
on this line is visible, again, just aft of the rope clutch. When the two marks (red tape) are opposite
one another, the mainsail should be reefed and tight.
Note: When the mainsail is flaked & secured to
the boom, you might be tempted to take all the slack out of the (red
&white) reefing line, please do not do this, just tuck the extra line in
the folds of the mailsail.
Headsail - The jib is furled on a Schaefer roller
furling. It has good sail shape at the
full out position.
Please add slight tension on the roller furling line
when deploying the headsail, and on the sheets when furling, this prevents
problems from either a rat's nest on the furling drum or "candy
striping" of the furled sail. After the jib has been unfurled, cleat the
furling line off with a little tension.
17. Sailing & Handling Characteristics. Just Fiddlin’ is a
delight to sail. Her full batten mainsail and 135 headsail moves her well in
light winds. Her perfect sailing breeze
is `10 – 15 knots. Under power, Just Fiddlin’ backs very slightly to port. However, once she has
sternway, Just Fiddlin’ is easily steered with small
rudder changes.
18. Shower.
It takes about 30 minutes of running the
engine under load to get hot water. When on shore power, you can heat your
water electrically. Experienced cruisers know the sailor’s shower: get wet, turn
it off, soap up, rinse off. If the
shower basin overflows, you’re using too much water. After turning the sump pump on at the panel
board, it is controlled by a toggle switch located next to the washbasin. CAUTION: The engine can heat the water to scalding
temperatures! On warm, sunny days, an alternative to the below decks
shower is the swim platform shower. This
is also a good way to rinse off salt after swimming or dirt after going ashore.
19.
Stove. The propane stove has two burners and an oven. Propane is heavier than air and requires
caution. For your safety, please follow
these procedures:
1. Open the
hand valve at the propane tank all the way.
2. Make sure all stove control knobs are in
the “off” position!
3. Turn on
the electric solenoid switch located on the electrical pane.
4. Follow
the stove lighting instructions printed on the inside of the oven door. Instructions are for both the stove top
burners and the oven.
5. When
finished with the stove, shut off the burner(s), then shut off the solenoid
switch. (What little propane remains in the line from the tank to the galley is
insignificant, and even if this tiny amount of propane were to leak into the
cabin, it would not cause a problem.)
6. If you do not intend to use the stove
again in the next several hours, it’s also a good idea to shut off the hand
valve at the tank. Then you’ll have both the solenoid valve and the hand valve
protecting against a potential propane leak into the main cabin. (You’ll sleep
much better!) Please note that both propane valves – the hand valve and the
solenoid valve – are located in the propane locker in the aft of the cockpit,
which is vented and isolated from the rest of the boat. Any leaks there will
move down, out, and away from the boat.
20.
TV/
You may want to enjoy a
The TV
support arm allows the TV to rotate for different viewing angles. The support
arm is tight to help keep the TV from moving on its own. Please use two hands when rotating or moving
the TV on the support arm. Note the
bungee, it helps keep the TV secure in its location when not in use.
AC/DC: The TV can run on either 110 shore power or the 12
volt inverter. Remove the port cushion
under the TV to access the cubby where you can change the plug from one power
source to another. Please, just move the
plug, do not touch switch on inverter.
21. Vacuum. The
battery powered vacuum is located in the aft cabin on top of the closet. It has
two speeds, use the lower speed, it cleans well and the vacuum will last longer
between charges. Be sure to secure the
vacuum with the little bungee.
22. Water – Hot & Cold Pressure.
Water
pressure: The fresh water pump switch is located on the
electrical panel. Please switch this off
when motoring or sailing. You could burn
out the water pump should one of the tanks run dry, (and you may not hear the
pump running over the sound of motoring or sailing).
Water tanks: There are two water tanks, a 24 gallon tank
(#1) located under the rear berth and a 22 gallon tank (#2) located under the
forward V-berth. Selection valves are under the aft bed. Use only one tank at a time – do not leave
both valves open. The water tank gauge is located in the same location as for
waste holding tank. Just press the
button to get a tank level readout.
State parks
have no pressurized water to refill tanks, but all points of civilization
do. Practice conserving water,
rinsing dirty dishes in salt water is a good first step and partially filling a
glass with water for teeth brushing is another.
* * *
Thank you in advance for taking special care
of Just Fiddlin’.
She is a great pleasure to our family and we hope she sails you through
a wonderful holiday.
Your ideas
and suggestions for improvements, plus any comments are important for us and
future guest. Please make note of them
in the guest log or on a separate sheet of paper.
Be safe - -
- Be well, Roger, Jennifer & Aidan
(the fiddler) Woods
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